Learning how to surf taught me a life skill that changed my life from stress to peace: I learned the secret of “effortless action.” I discovered how by becoming aware of the energy of each wave as it approached, I could be part of that energy, rather than struggle against it or try to control it. I learned about the pleasure of becoming syncopated with the element of the sea. But you don’t have to surf to learn this life skill. Effortless action can be learned through the practice of juggling, meditating, or running. It’s another way to look at things like “go with the flow” or “be still.” The Taoists call it wu wei — a form of “doing nothing” that exists in tandem with the energy that is yours to harness or to become. When we surf, we use the force of the wave to propel our motion—there is “nothing” we have to do except to be supremely conscious of the wave, activate our sense of balance, and take delight in the salty breeze. When we sit at our desk or go out shopping, do we expend more energy on trying to control the roiling forces around us or can we move in tandem with what’s necessary, friendly, helpful, or fun? Stress grows out of an extreme pressure on our psyches, but we put that pressure on ourselves by trying to force our energy in ways that harms or depletes it. It doesn’t work to stretch that rubber band to its resistance point—you know what will happen! Instead of putting stress on yourself, try riding the wave of whatever is happening—even in the midst of great hecticness, busyness, or loneliness. If you’re out at a stressful gathering, surf the waves rather than trying to control them. Becoming aware of the energies of each wave as it comes toward you and then riding its energy turns daily living into playfulness. It’s addictive. It’s great fun. And it lightens the worry that maybe if you don’t catch that wave, you might be swept out to sea or even drown. When you surf, you learn how to let a wave go past, or top it, or dive through it, or catch it. And if you don’t catch that one, you know there’s another one coming your way.
